Which reminds me, the Apple Watch dock files are on Thingiverse now.
In this episode, I’ll install the RetroConnector M0100 to USB conversion kit, in two different generations of the Apple M0100 mouse. Even if you aren’t planning on converting your mouse, this is a good introduction to taking one apart and successfully reassembling it.
The conversion kit is available here:
The best mouse Apple ever made, converted to USB/optical.
The M0100: Great Apple Mouse or Greatest Apple Mouse?
Whatever your opinion, the blocky, clicky, beige serial mouse that shipped with the original Macintosh and used throughout the ’80s with Macs and the Apple II line of computers was one of Apple’s most popular and prolific peripherals.
In this episode, I’ll cover a few basic questions about the Apple M0100 mouse, including how to tell if it will work with an Apple IIc.
The Apple IIc Technical Reference Manual I refer to in the video is available at the Internet Archive here:
The multimeter you see me using is this one from Sparkfun:
As I continued to work through the history of Apple computers, building 3D models of the product lines of the ’70s and ’80s, the Apple /// was next in the queue. The main trouble is, I don’t have an Apple /// to reference. I’d have to work from documentation and photos.
When approaching my most complex 3D model to-date, I decided to document the procedure from start to finish.
This video combines:
– Over 20 hours of screen recordings, using iDraw (now AutoDesk Graphic http://graphic.com/) Pixelmator (http://www.pixelmator.com/mac/) and AutoDesk 123D Design (http://www.123ddesign.com/) to create a 3D model.
– 20-30 minutes of sanding, polishing, and finishing.
– Another 2-3 hours of painting (drying time cut, so you’re not literally watching paint dry).
Sped up by 20x to 100x, it all takes about 15 minutes.
Just Nasty by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/)
Get Back, The Heist, Take That Back by Silent Partner
The Chase by Topher Mohr and Alex Elena
Provided by YouTube Audio Library
Replacing a broken keyswitch in an Apple IIe keyboard, and upgrading the power light bulb with an LED.
Some basic soldering skills are required.
“Third Hand” soldering stand:
Soldering iron (adjustable temperature):
Desoldering iron (solder sucker type):
This is the first in what will, hopefully, be a regular series of videos. If there’s something Apple II related that you would like to learn, leave a comment.
More information and purchase links for the headphone jack part are available here:
Thanks to Ivan Drucker for the loan of his Apple IIc Plus for this video. See more of his Apple II work at his website: http://ivanx.com/appleii/
Adam Rosen, of the Vintage Mac Museum, sent me these photos of his new iPod Nano dock in action. (with a few classic Mac OS screenshots on the Nano’s screen)
My first accessory for the (Apple)Watch.
Note: I’m taking pre-orders now. Finished docks will likely ship in late December. I cannot guarantee delivery by Christmas.
The new Apple WatchOS includes a “nightstand mode” that shows the time and date when charging and rotated horizontally. This Macintosh-styled stand holds the magnetic charger in place, so your watch screen is centered in the Mac’s display while it charges. The button and crown are accessible through the top of the stand, for checking the time and setting alarms without having to remove your watch.
The stand will fit either size Apple Watch – 38mm or 42mm – with enough room for even the chunkiest of watch bands (though the Hermes Double Tour and Cuff likely won’t fit).
Pieces are printed on demand at Shapeways, then sanded, polished, painted and finished by hand. To see the process in time-lapse, watch this video on YouTube.
As with my iPod Nano Dock, it comes in a variety of classic Macintosh variations: The Mac 128k/512k/Plus, SE and SE/30. Choose your model and color when ordering.